Patrick Leigh Fermor, known to his friends, readers and followers as Paddy, is regarded as one of the finest travel writers of his generation. At the age of 18, after a disastrous schooling and undecided what to do next, he walked across the Europe of the 1930s. This odyssey led him ultimately to Greece, a country he came to love deeply. This is where he made his home and wrote his honed and scholarly, yet deeply sympathetic, travelogues.
During this highly original tour, we follow in Paddy’s footsteps. Beginning in central Athens, we travel to the monasteries of the Meteora, to Missolonghi, with its proud associations with Lord Byron, and walk between the remote villages of the Kravara, all so vividly described in his book ‘Roumeli’. We visit Olympia, birthplace of the Ancient Olympic Games, and, in the southern Peloponnese, walk through villages of tower houses and frescoed Byzantine churches, seeing the villa (currently the subject of restoration) Paddy built for himself and his wife Joan on the tranquil shores of the Messinian Gulf. Our journey ends at dramatic Cape Tenaro at the (almost) most southerly tip of Europe.
Greece is, of course, very different from the country Paddy experienced more than 60 years ago, but the magnificent mountainous landscapes remain unchanged, and, as we wander through unspoilt villages, we are welcomed with the same exuberant Greek hospitality which Paddy recounts so passionately in his traveller’s tales.
HIGHLIGHTS of our Greece walking tour include:
Guests’ comments on this trip:
'It was an excellent holiday, well organised and guided by Ruth Hackney. The PLF theme (and readings from his books) provided a good structure for the tour.'
'I very much enjoyed the trip. I wanted to understand Greece with a view to returning so the terrain covered, the varied experiences, the presence of George, Ruth, and so many knowledgeable fellow travellers made this an exceptional introduction. I liked the flexibility, the good food, the places we stayed in, and the intensity of the experience. I loved being able to ask questions all the time and get answers, and to be introduced continually to new ideas, ways of looking, things to take note of, challenges to undertake, and the support.'
DAY 1
D included
We meet in the afternoon at Athens airport and transfer to our comfortable 4 star hotel, located just 5 minutes walk away from the new Acropolis Museum and within easy walking distance of the historic city centre. In the late afternoon, we may have time for a short walk to the foot of the Acropolis, before dinner at the hotel’s elegant and highly acclaimed rooftop restaurant gazing directly on to this Greek wonder.
DAY 2
B, L, D included
After a leisurely breakfast, we stroll to Syntagma (Constitution Square), where Paddy lamented the winds of change that had already started to sweep away the elegance of nineteenth century Athens. We then take a glimpse at the centre of Ancient Athens, before lunching in a small local taverna. This afternoon, we drive (4 hours) to the Meteora area, stopping halfway in Thermopylae, the location of the famous battle between the mighty Persian army and the 300 Spartans in 480 BC. We spend the next two nights in a recently restored ‘Archondiko’ (manor or mansion) hotel in Kastraki, set in the shadow of incredible rock pillars.
Today, we explore the Meteora on foot, initially following the route taken by Paddy when he accompanied the Abbot and his provision-laden mule through the October twilight up to Barlaam monastery. We visit the now flourishing Monastery and, after a simple picnic lunch, head for the neighbouring Monastery of the Transfiguration, described by Paddy as ‘inhabited’ by ‘the ghost of poverty.’ From here, our walk continues beyond the main group of monasteries, over incredible rock formations and through oak forest back to the village of Kastraki (5 miles mainly stony terrain, one short steep ascent to the monasteries. At least we no longer need to be hoisted up in a rope net.
DAY 4
B, L, D included
Paddy describes his journey to the Missolonghi area as ‘tortuous’; today we cover the 140 miles of mountain scenery in a comfortable 4 hours. After lunch in a delightful fish restaurant, we stroll back past the bird-rich lagoon, then, in the town of Missolonghi, we visit the Garden of Heroes, where the statue of Lord Byron, the great Philhellene, is afforded pride of place. No trace, alas, of Byron’s slippers, the quest for which took Paddy in the brutal heat of one midsummer. In the late afternoon, we continue our journey to the little-known mountain region of Oreini Nafpaktias, where we will spend the next two nights at a comfortable stone-built guesthouse set high above the village of Platanos.
DAY 5
B, L, D included
Today begins with a visit to Platanos, where, in the crowded village café, Paddy amused the locals by quickly picking up Bouliarika, the secret language used by their wandering mendicant forebears. We then retrace his walk to the neighbouring village. A steep 45 minute optional climb on the original path brings us to the brow of the gorge, though there is now no trace of the path he descended at breakneck speed. We enjoy a scenic picnic lunch at a wayside chapel before following the quiet lane down into idyllically located Perista, with its winding, cobbled streets and spacious village square.
DAY 6
B, L, D included
This morning, we leave Roumeli behind and head south through the Peloponnese. After approx. 4 hours, we reach Ancient Olympia, where the Olympic Games began in 776 BC. Following lunch, we take a leisurely guided tour of the site and the excellent museum. We complete our day with a short walk through this lush landscape before checking in to our 4 star hilltop hotel.
DAY 7
B, L, D included
This morning we drive to the Mani and up to the village of Kendro, high on the western flank of the Taygettus range at the edge of the Koskoras Gorge. Our pleasant 3-hour walk follows the route taken by Paddy and Joan when they emerged from the overgrown gorge after their momentous crossing of the mountain. We visit the ‘handsome old church’ on top of a knoll, and have lunch in the neighbourhood where they sampled their first glass of Mani wine. We then complete our journey to Kardamili, the village which Paddy and Joan were eventually to make their home. Described by Paddy as ‘unlike any village I had seen in Greece,’ Kardamili is charming. Our accommodation for the next 2 nights is in comfortable sea view apartments with swimming on the doorstep.
DAY 8
B, L, D included
Departing from our hotel on foot this morning, we visit Old Kardamili, the fortified stronghold of the Troupakis clan and meeting point for local leaders during the Greek War of Independence in 1821. It has been recently restored and converted into a museum dedicated to the traditional way of life in the Mani. For the remainder of the day, our walk will include the mountain villages of Exohori and Hora situated on the rim of the spectacular Viros Gorge, and possibly the tiny church of St. Nikolaos, where Bruce Chatwin’s ashes were scattered by Paddy and Elizabeth Chatwin.
DAY 9
B, L, D included
Today, we head further south and enter the Deep Mani, now linked to the Kardamili area by road rather than by the coastal steamer used by the Leigh Fermors. We come first to Areopolis, ‘the city of Mars’ still full of impressive tower houses and ‘gregarious life’. Starting from the square where the War of Independence began in 1821, we wind our way through the narrow lanes of the old town. We then follow a stony track down to the caves of Diros Bay, which we visit on a flat bottomed boat skilfully steered through a series of stalactite adorned chambers. Late afternoon, we check in to our comfortable, traditional-style hotel overlooking the sparkling waters of Limeni Bay.
DAY 10
B, L, D included
For our final excursion we drive south. Our morning walk recalls the adventures of Paddy and Joan when they visited Mezapo and were rowed across to the ‘desolate wilderness’ of the Tigani Peninsula, where they encountered the ‘tatterdemalion’ women collecting rock salt in the baking summer heat. Further south, we take an easy 30 min walk around the iconic, ruined tower village of Vathia, situated on a dramatic promontory high above the Mani coastline. Finally, we arrive at Cape Tenaro, where the Mani peninsula sinks into the confluence of the Aegean and Ionian seas. After lunch we take a brief walk through the scanty remains of the ancient settlement. Paddy came here by boat and on the way swam into what he believed to be the entrance to Hades, though we may discuss other possible contenders. There is no finer place than this to end our Mani journey.
DAY 11
B included
Our journey concludes with a journey to Athens airport. En route, we pause in Sparta, which is where, in a barber’s shop, Paddy’s Mani adventure began.
Boat trip through the Diros caves, as described
VALUE FOR MONEY - SO MUCH IS INCLUDED
On Kudu trips, you will only need money for postcards, presents to take home, the odd G & T or an irresistible ice cream. Festival and opera tickets, museum and gallery entrances, National Park fees, all meals (with a very few exceptions specified in individual itineraries), wine with lunch and dinner, access to specialist books carried by the guides, gratuities for porters and hotel and restaurant staff, boat rides, train trips, internal flights, wine tastings, 4WDs with drivers, the services of skilled local guides and trackers etc are ALL INCLUDED in the cost of your holiday.
We are confident that, like previous very satisfied guests, you will discover that our tours give you excellent value for money.
Ruth Hackney – read Oriental Studies at Cambridge and is a fluent Greek speaker with many years of experience guiding walking tours of Greece. She has lived for decades in a traditional tower house in the Mani.
Visa and Health Requirements
Visitors from the UK, EU, US, Australia, Canada and New Zealand require a valid passport, but not a visa, for entry to Greece. If you are a national of any other country, please check visa regulations with your nearest Embassy of Greece.
Please contact us for the latest health requirements for entry to Greece.
British visitors can claim free (emergency) medical treatment in Greece by presenting their existing European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) until the card’s expiry date. Once your EHIC expires, you will be able to replace it with a GHIC (Global Health Insurance Card).
You may also wish to check the advice given to travellers by the Department of Health and the FCO.
Insurance
It is essential, and a condition of booking, that you protect yourself with a suitable travel insurance policy as soon as you book a trip. We can arrange comprehensive cover for UK residents. Follow this link for a quote for a policy available to UK residents.
If you are already insured or a non-UK resident, please inform us of your policy at the time of booking.
Size of party
This trip will run with a minimum of 4 and a maximum of 14 guests.
Transport yourself to the Peloponnese to join us for a short reading from Paddy’s Mani recorded in October 2017.
