The trip dates coincide with the dry season in the Caribbean, a time of warm days, pleasantly cool evenings, especially in the hills, and clear blue skies. Cuba remains in a time warp at present – catch it while you can!
DAY 1
D included
A day flight brings us into Havana by late afternoon and we travel west by air-conditioned vehicle up into the Sierra del Rosario, where our well-appointed Spanish colonial-style hotel is run in co-operation with the Cuban Academy of Sciences as an eco-tourism centre.
DAY 2
B, L, D included
A professional ecologist guides a morning walk in the surrounding Biosphere reserve, following a forest trail to an abandoned 19C coffee plantation, originally planted by French refugees from Haiti. The birdwatching is excellent, including the endemic Cuban trogon, Cuban tody and Cuban woodpecker and we will also encounter many Royal Palms (the national tree of Cuba) and exotic Hog Plum, Turpentine and Ginger trees. After lunch by the pool the afternoon is free for relaxing - other options include riding, mountain biking, fishing and rowing on the lake near the hotel.
DAY 3
B, L, D included
We visit the beautifully laid-out orchid gardens in nearby Soroa in the morning and have lunch in a restored farmhouse high in the hills. A gradual descent on foot brings wide views, epiphytic orchids, some spectacular butterflies, and the opportunity to learn about the traditional medicinal uses of plants from our specialist guide. We return to our eco-lodge in time for a mojito or a daiquiri – classic Cuban cocktails – before dinner in acasa particular.
DAY 4
B, L, D included
Travelling through a landscape of tobacco fields dotted with vegas, the palm-thatched drying sheds, we walk in the distinctive landscape of the Viñales valley, with the horses, oxen, chickens and zebu cattle typical of rural Cuba in the valley floor and limestonemogotes (box shaped hills) rising steeply on either side. We explore the picturesque small town of Viñales, with its colonnaded main street and oxcarts and mules bringing produce into the market, and stay tonight in a modest hotel with fine views from the individual balconies and a swimming pool. Dinner in a casa particular is authentic and delicious.
DAY 5
B, L, D included
We walk in a little-visited valley, seeing endemic palms and stands of coffee before lunch - spicy roast pork, congri (beans and rice) and yuca con mojo (vegetable with coriander and garlic sauce) is a typical Cuban menu. Travelling east and south across the island, our destination for the next two nights is the charming town of Cienfuegos, founded in 1819 by French colonists from Bordeaux and Louisiana. Our recently restored historic 4 star hotel has a pleasant pool and spa facilities and we walk to the elegant town square to catch a mojito before dinner.
DAY 6
B, L, D included
After visiting the grand 19C theatre (where Enrico Caruso, Anna Pavlova and Sarah Bernhardt all performed during the town’s heyday) we take a private boat trip across the bay to see the early 18C fortress, the Castillo de Nuestra Señora de los Angeles de Jagua, and to visit the little island of Carenas with its wooden houses and lovely church. After lunch and a visit to the Yacht Club we spend the afternoon walking in the extensive Botanical Gardens at Soledad.
DAY 7
B, L, D included
800 metres up in the Escambray mountains east of Cienfuegos, the Topes de Collantes National Park enjoys a cool micro-climate which supports lush tropical forests with endemic orchids and many butterflies and birds, including humming birds and the colourful tocororo, Cuba’s national bird. We follow a hiking trail through the forest, with a stop for lunch in an isolated 19C hacienda. Continuing to Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the deserved reputation of being Cuba’s most beautiful colonial city, we settle into our ‘boutique’ farmhouse accommodation (well-equipped rooms, a good pool and views to both the town and the surrounding mountains).
DAY 8
B, L, D included
Trinidad has not changed much since Cortes set out from here for Mexico in 1518. Its well-preserved historic centre contains several fine colonial mansions, museums and churches and we spend the morning exploring these treasures on foot and climbing a lookout tower for great photo opportunities. The nearby beach at Playa Ancon offers excellent swimming in the afternoon and we return to Trinidad for dinner and an evening of live music, rum and salsa in an atmospheric local venue.
DAY 9
B, L, D included
We travel through the scenic Valley of the Sugar Mills, seeing the ruins of a 19C Great House built by the sugar aristocracy, en route to Sancti Spiritus, one of Cuba’s seven original Spanish towns founded in 1514. After lunch we continue to the university town of Santa Clara where we see the monuments to Che Guevara, including the 4 carriages of Batista’s troop train which were attacked by Che and his band of 18 guerrillas in 1958. Our hotel for the night, individual thatched little houses (airconditioned), is set amongst coconut and fruit orchards and has a swimming pool and a good restaurant.
DAY 10
B, L, D included
After a leisurely start we transfer to the north coast of the island and settle into our 4 star hotel, set right on a white sand beach and backed by forested hills. There is very good snorkelling on the coral reef just offshore (a short wade or swim) as well as a large swimming pool, and the hotel has a well-regarded Italian restaurant.
DAY 11
B, L, D included
A free day to relax at the beach and watch patrolling pelicans, ospreys and frigatebirds offshore; take a long beach walk, or a hill walk with our guide; or a choice of watersports for the energetic, including hobie-cats, kayaks and pedalos.
DAY 12
B, L, D included
Arriving in Havana by mid morning, we visit Ernest Hemingway’s atmospheric former home (including his big game fishing boat) in the southern suburbs, then take an orientation stroll through the old city and have lunch in a typical cafe. Our 5 star hotel is a restored Spanish colonial mansion, ideally located in the historic centre of old Havana.
DAYS 13 & 14
B, L, D included
Havana is the heart of Cuba, with a stunning heritage of faded (and, increasingly, carefully restored) 18C Baroque architecture, superb museums, atmospheric nightlife and those celebrated vintage cars proceeding in a stately fashion along the waterfront. We have 2 days to explore the city, guided each morning and with free time for individual pursuits after lunch each day – must see sights such as the Palace of the Captains-General on the Plaza de Armas, the newly reopened Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Columbus cathedral, the Museo de la Revolucion and perhaps checking out Hemingway’s favourite haunts. We celebrate our Cuban journey in style in some of the city’s best regarded restaurants.
DAY 15
B, L included
A final morning exploring Havana before a light lunch and a transfer to the airport to catch the late afternoon flight back to Europe.